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Food

S.S. DION,

520 Thames Street, Bristol, 253-2884.

Let's talk warmth: the rich colors of a stunning sunset over Bristol Harbor and the glow of embers in a glass-doored wood stove. The S.S. Dion (named after proprietors Stephen and Susan Dion) is decked out in a nautical motif, and its menu is one of the few few with its own lobster category. (There are also nods to those who prefer chicken, beef, veal, or vegetarian dishes. The swimmers and creepers definitely predominate, though.) The seafood chowder ($2.95) was a bisque-like dream, and touches like homemade croutons on the salad and warm Italian bread were also appreciated. The scrod Dijon ($10.95) " a large portion of fresh scrod with a fresh dill and shallot mustard sauce " was delicious, accompanied as it was by garlic mashed potatoes and baked winter squash. S.S. Dion is a place to linger " to savor Key lime pie ($3.50), drink coffee and tea, and listen to the disc-playing grand piano serenade you with "Moon River."








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